Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
Cambridge University Press, 2/4/2010
EAN 9780521129954, ISBN10: 0521129958
Paperback, 404 pages, 24.4 x 17 x 2 cm
Language: English
Originally published in English
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
1. Introduction
2. Observation techniques
3. Description of ocean waves
4. Statistics
5. Linear wave theory (oceanic waters)
6. Waves in oceanic waters
7. Linear wave theory (coastal waters)
8. Waves in coastal waters
9. The SWAN wave model
Appendices
References
Index.
Review of the hardback: '... will undoubtedly be welcomed by the extensive engineering community concerned with the impact of ocean waves on ships, off-shore structures, coastal protection, dikes, harbours, beaches and tidal basins.' K. Hasselmann, Director (retired) of the Max-Planck-Institut für Meteorologie, Hamburg, and Emeritus Professor of Theoretical Geophysics, University of Hamburg